‘Do you know the designer?’ – asks a colleague on the bench next to me at the BFC Showspace at London Fashion Week pre Marta Jakubowski AW18 official catwalk show.
That’s a strange question to be asked by someone who is at the same show as me. A waste of a ticket, Marta, I would say. A Polish-born, German-bred, UK-based (true Londoner, right?) designer Marta Jakubowski is not new on the London Fashion Week official schedule but it was only her second official catwalk show. Marta is sponsored by the British Fashion Council’s Newgen initiative and has been under the London Fashion Week umbrella since 2015. Yes, I know her.
As I explained to my counterpart, whose been showing previous catwalk’s photos and what they’ve done with the scenography, Marta Jakubowski has an unmistakable minimalist signature, hence, the catwalk might not turn into a disco ball. To my surprise, it has become a dancing hall. The minimalism was retained in the clean design and beautiful tailoring but everything else was very much upbeat, quite literally.
Models were springing down the catwalk by Whitney Houston’s ‘Every Woman’ taking you back to the 90s from the first moment. Think wavy bangs, flirty smiles and Naomi Campbell’s walk in her early career. As another ‘commentator’ noted, ‘the show was confusing – she referenced 90s in her Press notes and the clothes were totally 80s’. However, the commentator hasn’t taken into account that this was designer’s 90s, which was quite a bit different in Eastern Europe back then when countries like Poland were catching up with the Western trends. If the contextual reference seems too complex to some observers, you can still Google search ‘Whitney Houston 1992’ and some oversized one shoulder knitted jumper dresses will come up. Sarah Mower didn’t have a problem with the 1990s reference either (again, Google if in doubt).
Marta Jakubowski’s AW18 collection is wearable, beautifully sculptured and trendy without compromising on her minimalistic aesthetics. The only remark I would have to Miss Jakubowski’s team – please do not waste your budget on clueless bloggers.
‘I went to a Mulberry and to another show today by some Polish designer whose name I don’t remember’, – overheard and politely filled-in by the entrance at a different designer’s show. And so it goes London Fashion Week.