When you think the Fashion Week season has ended in Paris, think again. The rest of the world still showing their SS19 collections. From Klaipeda in Lithuania a couple of weeks ago to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia last week, to Tallinn Fashion Week in Estonia that just ended.
Fashion Week Russia, fascinating as ever, celebrates the 37th seasons of shows this October. From emerging talent to established names such as Slava Zaitsev, from enabling fashion projects, such as our favourite Bezgraniz Couture, to mother-children uniforms (a lot of them), from streetwear to bridal wear. Overcoming the feeling of over-saturation, I chose three Russian designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia that picked my interest, you can start loving them too.
Alena Akhmadulina. Showing her SS19 collection at New York Fashion Week in September first, Russian designer paid tribute to her hometown and showed again in Moscow. Following her maximalist signature hand-embroidered storytelling, designer continued the sequence of the English legend about a Lady Godiva. Lady Godiva – a historical English female character who, according to a legend, rode a horse along Coventry naked – covered only in her long hair – in protest to her oppressive husband’s taxation he imposed on his tenants. A heroic female character is often a topic for Akhmadulina blending the boundaries between the storytelling on the garment and the storytelling with a garment itself.
The collection was an impressive catwalk of over 50 models ranging from beautiful off-shoulder silk dresses to fully embroidered extra long dresses with life-like paintings hand-stitched on a garment. Overwhelmingly impressive. I liked most of the collection, except the real fur.
Atelier Odor is a fresh label from Moscow by designer Nikita Kalmykov. Launched just over two years ago, Odor is an intimate menswear project exploring individuality as the name of the brand suggests. In his own words, Odor embodies hedonistic lifestyle. For SS19 Kalmykov presented a capsule collection called Infantilism, inspired by the labour of rustic Russian peasants: “Hints of olibanum, chrism and wildflowers can be sensed in the odour of their freshly washed clothes.”
An intimate blend of nightwear aesthetics and summer crinoline ruffles, traditionally associated with feminine summer dresses, dominated the catwalk provoking the intriguing sense of forbidden.
Ksenia Seraya is a contemporary knitwear designer from Moscow. Possibly the only modern knitwear designer in Russia who plays like an antidote to the overwhelmingly maximalist aesthetics of embellishments, sequins, raving colours, contrasting fabrics, complicated textiles, and real fur. Ksenia is continuing her pristine minimalist knitwear designs playing with a mixture of knitwear patterns as opposed to the mixture of styles often seen on the catwalk at MBFW Russia.
Designer introduced several menswear models this season, presumably introducing a full menswear line in the upcoming seasons.
All photos ©Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Moscow